Food News

Published in Scoop Traveller NT, 2008. My brief included research, photographs and 3000 words about Northern Territory food. These are excerpts.

Hanuman Heaven

Aptly named for the popular Hindu deity, Hanuman is a god among restaurants in the Top End pantheon. As a first-timer to this much-lauded Darwin institution, I have to say it’s everything it’s cracked up to be. I’d sampled a delicious Hanuman fish curry at the Darwin Festival, but the complete Hanuman experience is definitely in the restaurant itself. It’s classy but not pretentious. Guests dress up because this is a real treat, not because they have to.

Entering the enormous atrium with its spectacular meld of contemporary minimalist decor and ornate Asian carvings, I’m greeted by name and ushered past a black and gold Balinese statue to the table of my friend. A white napkin is laid across my lap. Cool water is already poured. I’m enjoying myself before tasting a mouthful. The distinctive chunky cutlery catches my eye, and the beautiful earthenware plates – we each get our own design –  on the coconut-husk inlaid table. We’re on the bar side. The ceiling lights are inset and orange; the bar glows vivid turquoise and purple. My friend finds the aircon a trifle on the chilly side but just as she’s about to fetch a wrap from the car, our waiter offers a pashmina. Is there anything these people haven’t thought of?

When I drag my gaze to the menu, I’m drawn in 15 directions at once – if hedonists end up in hell, please may it be catered to by Hanuman for all eternity so I can sample the entire menu at my perpetual leisure! Finally, we opt for a tasting plate followed by Thai crispy whole fish to share. The tasters are Hanuman oysters (a signature dish), chicken tikka so tender it evades description (was it the rose petal garam masala?), Nonya pork rolls with sweet spicy tamarind syrup, and tandoori prawns. Each bite is ecstasy and elicits much amusement from my friend who has been here before and knows what to expect in terms of heavenly morsels. The whole fish is also superb in its sweet hot sour sauce and the tender white flesh peels easily off its own spine. Accompanied by steamed jasmine rice and kang kong (water spinach) with yellow soya beans, this meal is magnificent, and I even feel virtuous because I’ve had fish oil and my greens.

My sole regret is not leaving space for a Hanuman dessert. Next time and soon: cardamom and pistachio nut ice cream with gulab jamun in rosewater syrup and almond tuiles.

Rapid Creek Markets

If gastronomic genius Jimmy Shu visits on a Sunday morning at Rapid Creek Markets, you can’t get better for local fresh produce. The city’s oldest market has supplied Darwin residents with fruit, veg and seafood for three decades. If you’re a tourist this is worth a visit as it’s very different to the better known Mindil Beach Markets. Early morning is good to avoid the crowds and find the best produce.

It’s an experience just wandering the aisles looking at mounds of mangoes, pawpaw and lady finger bananas, lush bunches of Asian greens and fragrant herbs. Part of the intrigue is seeing produce change with the seasons. And there’s an amazing range you won’t see on a supermarket shelf – mysterious looking leaves, cashew fruits, tiny purple onions, and long green luffa (reputed to be a great base for vegetarian curry). For $2.50 you can buy an Asian curry making kit with fresh chillies, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and galangal. If you’re inspired to buy an unfamiliar vegetable, ask the stall owner if it needs special cooking, some taste bitter without. Most of the unusual fruits are delicious raw. Sapodilla resemble kiwifruit but are brown, rich and sweet inside. The delicate pink water apple or love apple is strawberry sized and shaped with a crisp pink skin and mild sweet snowy white flesh. Refreshing to nibble on straight from the fridge.

Arnhem Bushtucker

Based in Humpty Doo, Arnhem Bushtucker is an Australian wild food fruit conserve manufacturer. Their jams, chutneys, salsas and dessert sauces incorporate the unique flavours of Northern Territory desert and bush fruits.

Kakadu plum is made into jam and combined with mango and passionfruit in a dessert sauce. It’s tang is described as ‘lemony-grape’. Kakadu plum is richer in vitamin C than any other known food on the planet.

The rosella is a hibiscus with tiny flowers that become berry-like with dark red calyxes used for cooking. The taste is described as ‘tart’, ‘sharp’ and ‘like rhubarb’. Available as a jam, chutney and chilli sauce.

The bush tomato is used as a savoury spice. It’s also known as the desert raisin because the berries are dried and raisin-like when harvested (the berries are actually poisonous if not fully ripe). Bush tomato flavours are described as ‘intense’ ‘pungent’, ‘earthy-tomato, and ‘caramel’. Mix with capsicum and chilli for salsas and pasta sauces. Available in the native tomato and mango chutney and native tomato chilli sauce.

Arnhem Bushtucker products are available in specialty stores across the NT. For orders contact Pamela Hall Weir.